I don’t usually play favorites. To me, every place and experience is unique and cannot truly be compared to others. Even when it comes to trekking, it is hard to compare the scenery of one place to another, or the feeling you get along the trail. That being said, after spending the better part of three months hiking around the South Island of New Zealand, one trek really stands out in my mind above the rest: Rees-Dart. It is a 5-day trek that starts near Glenorchy. The trail passes through three different valleys, with a mandatory pass over the Rees Saddle and an optional side trip to the Cascade Saddle. I can’t say it is the best hike in New Zealand (that entirely varies from person to person), but I can say it is my favorite. Here are my top 5 reasons why:
#5 No Bookings Required
Anyone who has struggled to find an open spot on one of the Great Walks, only to have no choice but to walk in the pouring rain whenever their reservation time comes, will appreciate the fact that the huts on Rees-Dart are still first come first serve. This is great for a trek like this where you really want to have good weather, especially on the day you plan to do Cascade Saddle. Yes, the huts can get overcrowded but as long as you carry a mat and are all right with sleeping on the floor rather than one of the bunks if you arrive too late, you can pick and choose your start/end dates based on the weather forecast.
#4 Challenge
Great Walks are awesome (I’ve done several of them so far, including Kepler, Routeburn, Heaphy, and Abel Tasman) but there’s not a lot of challenge to the trails themselves. There can be steep sections, but the trail is usually wide enough, waterways have bridges, and there’s not a lot of technical challenge. Rees-Dart is a nice in-between. The trail is still well-maintained, but there’s a lot more steep up and down/big steps in some parts (especially near the Rees Saddle and Cascade Saddle) as well as several creek crossings without bridges and some boggy wetlands to cross on the first day (expect to have to take your boots off and wade). I appreciated having a little more challenge to the trail, even if it was exhausting sometimes.
#3 Wildlife
There are so many varieties of adorable and impressive birds in New Zealand. I never tire of seeing them and Rees-Dart had plenty. The kea in particular are a lot of fun. They like to visit when you’re at the top of a mountain or pass and will land right next to you, just sharing the view. The sound they make is extremely distinctive and their bright green and red feathers and sharp beaks are impressive. As the only alpine parrot in the world, it is worth trekking just to see them. There are also wild chamois near the Dart Hut. Although not a native specie and technically a pest in New Zealand, they are fun to see.
#2 Variety
One of the best parts about Rees-Dart is that every day is different. You don’t see the same scenery from multiple angles or have entire days under the forest as on some other treks. The first day you see the Rees Valley, with the mountains ahead of you, a constant goal. You finally arrive to these mountains on the first night at Shelter Rock Hut. The second day, you cross the Rees Saddle, which gives impressive views of the valley behind you and all the mountains on the other side. You descend along the river with mountain ridges on either side to reach the Dart Hut. From there, the day trip to Cascade Saddle brings you through the valley past the Dart Glacier and up to the view from the saddle. The fourth day, you’ll hike through yet another beautiful valley, following the Dart River to reach Daley’s Flat Hut. The final day you’re rewarded with views of more snow-capped mountains as you hike out to the end of the track. I appreciated that every day I saw something new and beautiful. It made me look forward to hiking each day, rather than just getting to the next hut.
#1 Scenery
Everyone has their favorite type of scenery, but for me it is the mountains. I am always amazed by steep mountains with exposed rock and snow-capped peaks. Glaciers are always a bonus, and I love to see rivers cutting through the valleys between the mountains. Rees-Dart offers all of this every day of the trek. The view from Cascade Saddle is particularly impressive. On one side, you have a fantastic view of the Dart Glacier flowing down from the mountain. On the other side, you get a bird’s eye perspective of the Matukituki Valley and the towering Mount Aspiring. It is one of the best scenic views I’ve seen in New Zealand and would be worth trekking the other days to see it alone. The overall grandeur of the scenery on the Rees-Dart trek is definitely my number one reason it is my favorite. If you’re headed to New Zealand and are ready for a challenging but rewarding hike, this one should be on your list!
The track is accessed outside of Glenorchy. It doesn’t make a loop, so if you decide to drive to one end, you’ll have to figure out some transportation to get from the other end back to your car. There is a shuttle service that drops off/picks up from either end of the track. You can book it from Glenorchy or Queenstown.
If you decide to drive, you may want to start on the Rees side. This area is much more remote, with no traffic but those going to the trail. On the Dart side, some people do come there for daytrips so you may be able to catch a ride out with someone. It is probably worth the peace of mind to take the shuttle though as the dirt roads going to either end of the trail are in bad condition and the amount of people finishing the trail/trying to hitchhike back tends to exceed the number of day-trippers headed back out.
Tips/Things to See:
- Make sure you check the weather forecast before starting the trek. There are steep rocky sections that would be difficult/dangerous in the rain and the amazing view from Cascade Saddle won’t be visible if you don’t have a clear day. You’ll want to attempt the trek in the height of summer (January or February) to have the best chance of good weather/trail conditions.
- Be sure to carry a sleeping mat even if you’re planning to stay in the huts. You may get lucky and get a bunk, but you may have to sleep on the floor so a mat is worth the extra weight.
- Bring bug repellent and sunscreen! The sand flies are bad, especially at the Daley Flat Hut, and the sun in New Zealand is ridiculously strong.
- Hiking poles are a great idea, especially if you have bad knees. There is a lot of up and down on this track and the poles will help re-distribute your weight and stabilize you.
- It is a long trek with no showers, so be prepared mentally (don’t worry – everyone looks grungy by the end). It’s an amazing feeling when you finally get back and get a hot shower!
- Be sure to plan an extra day for the Cascade Saddle side trip. It is really the highlight of the trek in my opinion and accessible enough if you’re willing to keep climbing (the route is pretty straight-forward until the last section when you have to cross some fallen rock). It is well worth the effort though.